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After an amazing journey through Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, we arrived at the Russian border, the border to the city of Astrakhan.

Border crossing

I cross the river and first have to register. Then we drive 10 km to the official border crossing. I fill out an immigration form and wait my turn. An officer comes to the car and wants to check the dog’s passport. After that, I wait a bit longer, about an hour and a half, but this border crossing goes quite smoothly! The officers are friendly and speak a little English; there’s no corruption. I immediately arrange third-party liability insurance for the car at a shack after the border crossing, for at least 15 days, at a cost of RUB 2,200 (€24).

Astrakhan city

My first destination is the city of Astrakhan. I drive through a village on a rough road that looks exactly like Kazakhstan! After a bit of searching, I find a pontoon bridge, where I can cross the river for €3.50 (RUB 320).

The scenery is changing and becoming much greener; we’ve left the steppe behind. Astrakhan has a lovely boulevard along the Volga River, and the Astrakhan Kremlin is magnificent!

I’m parked right in the city center on the boulevard, enjoying the sunset. People are cheerful and enjoying a classical music performance. Check out this video!

We stroll through the city looking for a bank where I can exchange euros for rubles. There is a relaxing park with a large monument to Lenin. We’re having a wonderful time in Astrakhan.

Dagestan region

But we’re in transit, so we’re heading to the Dagestan region. First, I drive through many small villages, reaching a maximum speed of 40 km/h. Luckily, a good road appears later, and now I can continue at 100 km/h.

We’re driving through a remote area, with hardly any buildings. I’m spending the night in a village without houses, with a few shops, restaurants, guesthouses, and plenty of gas stations. Dinner today: delicious coleslaw and Cheburek with potatoes, for the last time, unfortunately.

Chechnya region

My next destination is the city of Vladikavkaz. In the Chechnya region, I have five police checkpoints! And I see many police and military officers along the way. Sometimes they ask to see my papers, but usually I’m allowed to pass right through.

I’m immediately pulled over and taken to a small office. There, I get a ticket in dollars! Well, that’s a bit strange. I have to say no no no multiple times (I don’t think I did anything wrong). After a few minutes, I can take my driver’s license back, smile politely and return to my car without a ticket.

So and now a parking spot for the night!

Overnight stay before the border

About 15 km before the border, we spent the night in a beautiful valley nestled between the mountains. The people here are helpful and friendly. For 200 RUB (€2), I sleep behind a locked gate, perfect!

Useful travel tips

• Google Maps works fine in Russia, but the GPS doesn’t always work properly. It’s especially disrupted in cities, making it impossible to navigate with the app.
• I bought eSIM online at Manet.travel 20 GB per month for €20. There are several providers with good deals.
• Liability insurance at the border, 15 days approximately €20-€25.
• ATMs are not available in Russia. Bring unwrinkled euro banknotes and exchange them at a small bank for a good exchange rate.
• You must officially register in Russia within eight days, for example, at a hotel. Keep your registration in a safe place, as it is often requested upon leaving Russia.

And then everything is approved. Yes we’re going to Georgia! Will you travel with us?